Every bone-cleaning method comes down to the right supplies used the right way. Buy the wrong hydrogen peroxide concentration, skip the coveralls, or reach for regular craft glue instead of a proper sealant, and you can end up with brittle, yellowed, or poorly finished bones after weeks of work. Below is exactly what to buy for each stage of the process, along with why it matters and how it’s used.
Removing Tissue from Bones
Before a bone can be degreased or whitened, all soft tissue needs to come off. Whether you’re macerating (soaking) or doing manual removal, these three items make the process faster and safer — see our full guide to cleaning tissue off bones for the step-by-step method.
- Waterproof coveralls — tissue removal gets messy and the smell clings to fabric. Disposable coveralls keep the job contained to one set of clothes you don’t mind tossing.
- Biotex Powder — an enzyme-based stain remover that speeds up tissue breakdown during maceration without the harsh smell of some alternatives. A scoop or two per soaking bucket is usually enough.
- Cheesecloth — wrap smaller bones, teeth, and fragile pieces before soaking so nothing slips down the drain or gets lost in murky water when you’re ready to check progress.
If the bones came from something you found outdoors rather than a butchered animal, it’s worth sterilizing them before you go any further — wild bones can carry bacteria and parasites that soaking alone won’t remove.
Degreasing Bones
Grease trapped inside bone will keep seeping out for years if it isn’t removed first, leaving yellow patches and a rancid smell no amount of whitening can fix. Our full degreasing guide covers the process in detail, but here’s what you’ll need:
- Clear ammonia — breaks down fat and grease inside the bone. Use plain, unscented, dye-free ammonia — anything with added surfactants or fragrance can leave residue.
- Aquarium heater — warm water (not hot — around 100–110°F) pulls grease out much faster than a cold soak. A cheap aquarium heater dropped into your soaking bucket keeps the temperature steady over days or weeks.
Whitening Bones
12% hydrogen peroxide (sold as hair developer at beauty supply stores) is the standard choice for whitening degreased bones. It’s strong enough to brighten bone without the structural damage that bleach can cause over time — we go into exactly why in this breakdown of bleach vs. hydrogen peroxide. Skip this step until degreasing is fully done — whitening greasy bone just seals the grease in.
Other Supplies
A few extra items round out a full cleaning and finishing kit:
- Borax — pack it into beaks, horns, and nails to draw out moisture and prevent rot in the softer keratin parts that bone-whitening methods don’t touch.
- Krylon Clear Matte Finish Spray Coating — a light sealant that protects finished bones from dust and moisture without an obvious glossy sheen. See our full guide to sealing and finishing bones for other sealant options, including museum-grade Paraloid B-72.
- Disposable gloves — for handling ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, and raw tissue safely throughout every stage.
- JB Weld epoxy, Liquid Nails, and Bondo Putty — for repairing cracked bone or reattaching small pieces once everything is clean and dry. JB Weld and Liquid Nails work well for structural bonds; Bondo Putty is useful for filling small chips or gaps before a final seal.
With these on hand, you’ve got everything needed to take a bone from found or found-and-messy through to a clean, sealed piece ready for display.
